Going North
Heading north from town, one can poke almost immediately into Kings Creek and Cherrystone Inlet; but the most interesting route begins a couple miles up, traversing the several mile beach and dune system of the Savage Neck, which makes up the northwest shore of Cherrystone Inlet. Forested sand dunes rise to 70 feet and more along this peninsula. During spring and fall they hold a healthy variety of warblers, hawks and other birds migrating to and from the tropics. The state of Virginia has preserved part of the neck as a refuge.
These gently sloping beaches are also nesting places for horseshoe crabs (peak nesting in June, on full moon nights); also for diamondback terrapins. It's not uncommon to see a giant loggerhead sea turtle washed up dead along the Bay edge here. Cause of death may be collision with boats or drowning in nets, or often simply unknown. Schools of porpoise are a common sight too.
On low or falling water, short, sharp little waves can unexpectedly break on paddlers as sand shoals begin to emerge. Some days the way ahead is strewn with such breaks for miles. Picking your way through as the tide rises or falls can be interesting and a challenge (tip: hunt for calm and navigable water close inshore before heading out to sea to skirt breakers).
The shoals as they emerge also make fine places to beach and lunch and swim. In places along the Savage Neck are some of the Bay's best beds of underwater grasses, excellent spots to snorkel when the water's clear.
For the more ambitious paddler, it's about 11 miles, three to five hours by kayak, to Nassawadox Creek, dividing line between Northampton and Accomack counties. Less than a mile inside the creek is a pullout boat ramp by the old Bayford oyster shucking house. It's still maintained as a base of operations and unofficial oyster museum by waterman H.M. Arnold, who, if he's not busy, will show you around.
On one side of the old oyster house are high water marks for storms going back to the 1950's. Except for the hardcore paddler, Bayford is a one way trip, and paddlers would be advised to drop a car there or arrange for a pickup, before leaving Cape Charles,
An alternative would be to explore Hungars Creek, about halfway between Cape Charles and Nassawadox Creek.
